Chattiest - Any tips on laying plaster board?

Any tips on laying plaster board?

I'm fixing plaster board to a stud wall which will then be skimmed with plaster. Any tips on how to position, lay the board. It is square edged board and i'm fixing it with black dry wall screws. My main querie is do i lay the plaster board horizontally or vertically (it is in oblong sections). And do i stagger the edges as in brickwork. Thanks very much.

Public Comments

employ a plasterer,
Put the boards on which ever way you get the least waste,the edges need to be on the battons, it doesn't matter if they go on across long ways or stood up high and you don't need to stagger them but get the edges tight together
dont think it would make a difference how u do it if u are skimming them afterwards u do realise theres an art to plastering x good luck anyways
I have done this on quite a number of houses and it is a first-class wall, so much nicer than cheap drywall. Short of doing a full-blown plaster-on-lath wall, this solution is a very nice one.

We always hung the board the same as doing drywall, primarily with the boards upright, screwed to the studs with drywall screws, but the board we used, which was "blue board" (the paper was treated with some kind of agent that was supposed to aid bonding and gave it the blue color) did have edges relieved for joints. We used the mesh tape on the joints.

As to the skim coating, that is a job that requires a high level of skill. I've tried it, on smaller jobs, like, say, one wall or some repairs and I can tell you that it's not for the DIY'er. I hope that you're going to hire a real plasterer to do this.
Vertically is best, and if you put proper jointing tap and filler on the joints then the plasterer should have no problem at all and finish the job in one full sweep.
It doesn't matter witch way you put them on ,but as you say try not to put them on in straight lines but similar to brickwork. This will make the plaster less likely to crack .Also use Thistle plaster for boarding.
Lay it vertically with the grey side showing if you are going to plaster.
if you lay them vertically you probably wont need to stagger the joints as the boards are probably floor to ceiling height anyway. if you fit them horizontally, you should stagger the joints, as a long continuous join may lead to the skim coat cracking along the entire length of the join. shorter join shorter potential crack. I would go with vertical as there will be a stud behind the entire edge.
Smudgeuk, fix the boards vertically, there is no need to stagger them. Fix them with the whiter side in, and before skimming fix your skimming tape. One tip....make sure that the first board you fix is vertically plumb, before fixing any more. Be sure all electrics are in place,
I may be wrong but if you are skimming the boards they should be fixed with the feather edge facing outwards. The joints are then covered with scrim tape and then plastered over. They should be fixed with plasterboard nails that just make a dent in the board without puncturing the paper layer. It doesnt matter how they are laid H or V but should be staggered to avoid long joints. They need to join on the battens rather than in between battens,
1] Make sure the existing framework suits the size of

plasterboard ie vertical frames (called studs) should be a

module of 1200mm or at 400 centres.(not 1228mm)

Ditto for horizontal frames which should be at minimum

600mm centres

2] What is ceiling height? Perhaps this would affect which

way you lay. Otherwise lay whichever is easier for you

to handle safely.

3] You may wish to consider using a board which is bonded

to insulation if you are on an external wall.

4] You say you will have boards plastered but If you are

wallpapering you may find the tapered edge

board approach with joints scrimmed and filled by a

competent, experienced decorator is cost effective.

Plastering gives best finish and when redecorating comes

along the surface of the plasterboard does not come off

with the old wallpaper.

5] Was the existing plasterboard foil-backed? If so it may

have been such in order to provide a "vapour barrier" to

your timber wall, construction to prevent warm air entering

the wall. cooling and condensing on the timbers and

causing them to rot.

6]a) I suggest you carry out the following before boarding:

Make a measured drawing of your studded wall and of any

services(pipes,cables etc) as you do not want to screw

those.

6]b) Check that all studs are level an plumb

and using a long straight edge placed at 3 or 4

horizontal positions edge check that the frames are

aligned . (Otherwise its dips in the wall ..not

handy if the finish is tiles)

6]c) Use your drawing to draw lines on the plasterboard to

indicate the position of the frames behind. I find that a

useful precaution is to plot the position of pipes and

services on the plasterboard so that you avoid screwing

into those services.

7] Regarding staggered edges: If you are double sheeting

a partition for sound proofing reasons, then manufacturers

recommend staggering overlapping boards. Staggering is

recommended for ceilings.

8] I found that laying a thin piece of wood temporarily on the

floor helped make it easier to level the boards. The gap

left could be filled withh plaster and coverd by skirting

anyway.

9] Unlike the plastering, It is quite an easy job really since

gaps get taped and filled and edges are metal beaded by

the plasterer. You will need a Surform or roughing plane to

dress down any exposed edges of board.
I always fix the boards across the joists starting from the ceiling first and I always stagger the boards.When I was an a apprentice We were told to leave a one eight joint between the joints to allow for movement.This is rarely done these days due to improvments in self adhesive scrim etc.Put a screw in every 150 to 200mm.Cut the joints nice and square.The reason for staggering is to reduce cracks running the length of the joist.Only in small areas would I fix the boards upright..